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Lazer Beamz Hardware Wars
Battle Wagon  
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Lazer Beamz

Created by Kristoffer A. Silver

 

Lazer Beamz is the kind of game designed for the individual person with a desire to play a thought provoking game without requiring a computer or another person. In addition, it also allows every player to play at a level he or she is comfortable with allowing the game to become more challenging as the skill of the player becomes greater. In addition, the game lends itself to multiplayer game play as well. This multi-faceted aspect of the game offers a unique opportunity for players to enjoy the game either alone or with company. This game is not so difficult that children cannot grasp it yet offers a complexity that can be enjoyed by all level of intellects. Games can last a few minutes or longer, depending on the amount of thought put into each card played. What follows are the instructions to game play, examples and a general overview of the game.

SOLITAIRE GAME:

A. SET UP Shuffle the deck of cards and place the deck, face down, to your left.

B. OBJECT OF THE GAME: To layout .m many cards as possible an. have all cards connect to another can., leaving no can. with uncontained
edges.

C. PLAYING


1. First, draw a card from the top of deck.
2. Next, place a card from your hand, face up, onto the playing field in front of you or in the single card discard pile to your right. To place the card in the playing field it must be played adjacent to another card which has a beam emitting from it to which it may connect using a beam of its own (see Illustration #1). 

The exception is that the very first card laid down obviously does not have to be played adjacent to any other card. As can be seen in the illustration, the card 'A' is being placed to the right of the Card 'B'. This is a legal move as there are no other cards which would keep card 'A' from being playable. In Illustration #2 card 'C' may not be place. in position because card 'C' does not have a matching emitter for card 'D'. Cards must be played oriented in one direction, that is: long side up and down.

D. THE DISCARD. 

Only a single card may be played in this pile which may be drawn from instead of the regular deck when an opportune time occurs. This discard pile (of one) acts as a holding area for a single card. at a time which might otherwise have ended or inhibited the game. Once the discard has been used in the playing field, the discard 'pile' may be used again. Using the discard is most effective when a single emitter card (IE: card 'A' or card 'C' from the illustrations) is drawn early in the game with few card possibilities available. The choice to use a discard must be made before a card is picked up from the deck. (Only one card may be in your hand at a time.)

E. END OF GAME. Play continues until all cards have been played and the playing field is still open (Losing) or the playing field is closed off beyond a predetermined level of play - which is “Winning.” Each level is determined )y the minimum amount of cards played in the playing field; level one is five, level two is ten, level three is fifteen and so on. Closing a game off works as in Illustration #2 if a similar card to card 'E' is played instead of card 'C' in the same position (upside down). The playing field would be closed off (at level one - above five cards, below ten). Once you have defeated one level consistently, make it more difficult by playing for higher levels.


MULTI-PLAYER GAME:

A. SETUP. Shuffle the deck of cards, deal seven cards to each player, then place the deck, face down, to your left in the center of the table. 

B. OBJECT OF THE GAME. To be the first to reach 100 points.

 

C. PLAYING. 1. The player to the left of the deal is first. The first player must play a corner cad at any comer (IE: F) of a five card by five card grid (see illustration 3). If the player has no corner card, then he must draw a card. Play passes to the left. This continues until one player may play a corner card.
2. Play then continues to the left, each player laying a card into position against an existing card, all rays matching up correctly. If a player can not play a card, he must draw a card
3. Play limitations:
a. All cards must be played within the five card by five card grid
b. Any card played in the outer perimeter must not have a ray projecting outside the perimeter.
c. Should a completed set be made, then a subsequent play may be made with a blank side against the blank side of another card (IE: G). Such a play may only be made in this one instance. 

D. SCORING
1. Completing an enclosed set of cards, such that all rays return to themselves. Scores equal to all rays in each card of the enclosed set.
2. Completing a perimeter, such that all cards in the perimeter are filled in. The perimeter does not have to be an enclosed set and may in turn include enclosed sets or portions of enclosed sets. There are three perimeters: The outer perimeter (16 Cards); the second perimeter (8 Cads, See Cards "I"); and the center card (1 Card). Scores equal to all rays in each card of the perimeter (IE: 2nd Perimeter Cards “I” = 19 points).
3. Filling in the final
card of the five by five grid allows that player to
set any remaining cads in his hand to the side and out of play. Play then ends as if the last card has been drawn from the deck.
4. When the last card is drawn, at that moment the hand is complete and all players lay the cards in their hands face up in front of them Cards in each player's hand count as negative points toward the player's score.
E. WINNING. If no one has reached 100 points, shuffle the cards, re-deal and play a new hand, adding to the existing scores until one player has reached 100 or more points or the higher score over 100 points should more than one player reach 100 points. The final tally and comparison is to be made when each hand is complete.

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Hardware Wars

Created by Kristoffer A. Silver

 

A. SET UP. Shuffle the deck of cards and deal seven cards, face down, to each player. (If more than 10 players are playing then deal an equal amount of cards to each player.) Position the remaining cards (if any), face down in one deck, in the center of the table. Play begins with the player to the dealer's immediate left and then proceeds clockwise from player to player.

 B. OBJECT OF THE GAME: To acquire as many points  as you can in your 'winnings' pile by taking as many cards as you can. 

C. PLAYING

      1. First, draw a card from the top of the deck in the center of the table (if there are any cards remaining).

          2. Next, place a card, from your hand, face up in front of you. 

3. Finally, remove all cards from the table in front of every player, including yourself, that your card can defeat (see rules of combat). Place the acquired cards in a stack, face down on the table, next to you. These are your winnings. Your turn is over.

D. RULES OF COMBAT. Only the card currently being placed down in front you may be used to determine which other cards may be taken. The cards which your card can defeat are listed in the upper left hand corner of the card you are using. The card being played is left on the table, in play, and not included in your winnings. In addition, cards of lower rank, but of the same piece of hardware may also be taken.  Higher ranking pieces are designated by the number of hardhats listed beneath the card value in the upper right hand corner of each card. Example: a three hardhat screwdriver (blue) can take a two hardhat screwdriver (green) and a one hardhat screwdriver (yellow). Of course, a four hardhat screw driver (red) can take all three of the others. 

Color hierarchy is: red (highest), blue, green, and yellow (lowest). Some cards have four versions, some three, some two, and three cards (dynamite, jack hammer and cement mixer) have only one version. A red card will always be more powerful than its blue counterpart.  

 E. END OF GAME. Play continues until all cards have been played on the table. Any cards left on the table in front of you after all cards have been played belong to you. Pick them up and place those cards with your other winnings.

 F. WINNING THE GAME. Total the number of the points listed in the circle on the upper right hand corner of each card. The player with the highest score wins.

 G. SPECIAL INFORMATION. If you have any questions, feel free to write to...

Stoffer9999@Yahoo.Com  Put "Hardware Wars" in the subject line.
     
   

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Battle Wagon

Created by Kristoffer A. Silver

Battle Wagon was designed as a strategy game, complete with ship and aircraft tokens, sectional maps, and, of course, the rules. Unfortunately, during production, the Battle Wagon token maps were printed incorrectly making it impossible to die-cut the craft tokens. The printing error forced us to put the game project into hiatus. We will return to this project when time permits. 
   

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Current Projects

At the moment, there are many projects ready to be worked on, however I will wait until my schedule evens out before actually beginning work on any. 

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Future Projects

At the moment, although I have future projects, I will wait until they are actually ready to be started. 

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Other Great Companies

These are links to game companies I like. 

Steve Jackson Games

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